The inspired cooks of the Himalaya are the Tibetans, not the Nepali. We started sampling Tibetan cuisine in Darjeeling and it quickly became a habit….
Aboard the Darjeeling Himalayan Express, scenes of mountain life pass by the open windows at an antique pace. Produce sellers line the tracks with baskets…
Our train shudders to a stop in Patna Junction, the nervous hiss of air breaks reflecting my mood. Have I erred in planning an adventuresome…
The last time I left Delhi, the pilot couldn’t get the plane off the ground fast enough. Gastrointestinally challenged, physically exhausted and emotionally exasperated, I…
When I last visited Hampi and its ruinous, romantic surrounds, the Tunga-Bhadra River was the northern boarder of the archeological monument. Today archeologists recognize the…
The social context for our time in Bhimavaram with the Byrraju Foundation is important: two western Professors traveling to rural Andhra Pradesh are VIPs. We…
I love water: drinking it; irrigating clover and timothy with my mom; helping Nordstrom use it wisely. I assume all who grow up in arid…
Novelists have long known that time travel is easy: Take a look—a sharp, tell-yourself-no-lies look—then shut your eyes. Better yet, go away. Return with open…
On our one full day in Vancouver British Columbia, everything is glassy and still. Clean and contemplative, this city evokes the gentle reserve of a…
Previous experience has taught us: India is a hot and dry country. Hot, meaning steamy tropics or blazing desert in many regions. Dry, meaning without…
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