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The Best Marmellata in the Mediterranean

The Best Marmellata in the Mediterranean

May 21, 2014
Alison Dennis
Eat + Drink, Italy

It is our last day in Palermo and we are seated in the cheery, maraschino red dining room of the Seralcadio Bed and Breakfast when…

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A bus stop in Palermo.

Thanks, Italian People!

May 21, 2014
Chris Dennis
Culture, Italy, Transit

Two weeks and one day in Italy convince us that the people here are some of the warmest and most helpful of any whose company…

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Italian Double-Take: Aragon Castle, Taranto

Italian Double-Take: Aragon Castle, Taranto

May 20, 2014
Alison Dennis
Culture, Italy, Transit

“Often we pass beside happiness without seeing it, without looking at it, or even if we have seen and looked at it, without recognizing it.”…

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A Mateo groom idles away the afternoon in Palermo.

All the World’s A Stable: Mateos in Palermo

May 20, 2014
Chris Dennis
Italy, Transit

Ships stop in Palermo. That’s why horse-drawn carriages still roam the streets. The morning we got off the ferry, dozens of one-horse buggies–called mateos–were lined up…

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Two craps dice on a green background. From Wikimedia Commons.

Building the House in Palermo, or, Practical Statistics for Off-Duty Sergeants

May 20, 2014
Chris Dennis
Culture, Italy, United States

Palermo feels like a place where schemes are hatched. Unexpected turns, the ancient beside the modern, the grit of daily struggle right in front of…

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A pizza with egg cracked on the top a soon as it leaves the oven.

Our Best Pizza: Smoked Swordfish and Onion

May 20, 2014
Chris Dennis
Culture, Eat + Drink, Italy

Pizza. You have an image, don’t you? I write the word and a picture appears in your mind. Perhaps it is the family favorite from…

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Bravissimo, Palermo!

Bravissimo, Palermo!

May 19, 2014
Alison Dennis
Culture, Italy

Welcome to Palermo, an operatic city if ever there was one. Make your way from the docks into the grand, dilapidated theater that is Sicilian…

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A sunken boat in the harbor at Palermo, Italy.

The Devil Is Dead, Part 3

May 17, 2014
Chris Dennis
Culture, Italy, Transit, United States

 After this it was sheer travel along the North African littoral, and the Mediterranean, and Sicily, and Greece. This: Tangier. This: the death of Don…

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In the Mood for Myrtle

In the Mood for Myrtle

May 12, 2014
Alison Dennis
Culture, Eat + Drink, Italy

From Sassari in the north, we make our way by bus toward Cagliari on the the island’s southern tip. It’s springtime in Sardinia as we…

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Corsican Flag on the Kallieste.

Moor’s Head: Traditional and Modern Imagery in Corsica and Sardinia

May 12, 2014
Chris Dennis
Culture, France, Italy, Transit

I first really noticed it on the prow of our ferry, the Kalliste, during our dawn docking in the Corsican port of Propriano. The sea…

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