The inspired cooks of the Himalaya are the Tibetans, not the Nepali. We started sampling Tibetan cuisine in Darjeeling and it quickly became a habit….
In the northern subcontinent, our travels have taken on a focus: be where the Buddha has been. It wouldn’t be right to say we are…
In India, our way was smoothed by some gentlemen with such specialized skill and professionalism that we did not need to share much common language for them to…
Darjeeling is a whole different India. How is it different? How different is it? Here are some of our observations: It is cooler. Much cooler….
Our train shudders to a stop in Patna Junction, the nervous hiss of air breaks reflecting my mood. Have I erred in planning an adventuresome…
No matter how early you awaken, Ganga and her people are already at work. They never stopped, really. Corpses have been burning all night. The…
India is bursting with visual stimulus. Bright ads on every building: red ads for Coke, yellow and blue ads for cement, a confusing collage of…
What happens when you put a horseman on the back of a camel? He gets to thinking about livestock. Sparse thoughts. Comparative thoughts. Saddles. If…
My father was an art critic. (He was a man of many talents. Ranching was his vocation and joy, but hardly his sole interest or…
Today was a success, a culmination, a joy. And, possibly, the beginning of a new tradition. Together, Alison and I returned to the Cave Temples…
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