Cappadocia is a glorious intertwine of geology and human need. The need? Shelter. The geology? Tuff: compressed volcanic ash. As a rock, it doesn’t live…
Finnegan and Anastasia had rented a donkey, loaded it with two paniers, and gone to visit Anastasia’s grandmother, the matriarch of the Demetriades. This was…
After a few days they came to Naxos, the home of Ariadne and the white wine. And also the home of Anastasia Demetriades who claimed…
Even through a modern haze it is manifest almost from the moment you enter the Athens valley. Acropolis. Truth 1: You can’t help looking at…
When we travel halfway across the planet to Delphi, we’re going to put some questions to the Oracle, aren’t we? You bet! We’ve put our…
There is no sign. No conventional marking or advertising. The hours are not posted. It is like Brigadoon in this way: part of the magic…
Then there was Messina, whence they jumped to Zakinthos, a Greek thing and thus within the sphere of Anastasia. We were in Messina, on Sicily….
Two weeks and one day in Italy convince us that the people here are some of the warmest and most helpful of any whose company…
Ships stop in Palermo. That’s why horse-drawn carriages still roam the streets. The morning we got off the ferry, dozens of one-horse buggies–called mateos–were lined up…
Palermo feels like a place where schemes are hatched. Unexpected turns, the ancient beside the modern, the grit of daily struggle right in front of…
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