My spouse loves fire. She lights our dinner table with candles (Back in the days when we had a house and a dinner table. And…
Tentale #1: Where do we eat octopus? Galicia. The Galicans are mad for octopus and other Spaniards travel to Spain’s northwest corner just to eat the…
Our feet touch Spanish soil in Algeciras. Dusk is upon us when we debark and the dark is nearly complete by the time we’re out…
In Tangier something happened that had been hanging like a storm, and it broke on the third day there. Doomsday morning was sullen, and it…
The Sahara consumes part of Morocco, and while snow does fall in the Atlas and Rif mountains, the people of Morocco are water conscious. Perhaps…
“Finnegan, this is a seaport, it has the atmosphere of one. That being the case, I have some sort of ship here. We will fit…
In the crush of fishing boats tied up at the Casablanca dock, my vision goes through an ethereal transformation. It is not a seaside mist…
The plaza at Jemaa El Fna is never really empty: some of the juicers of oranges probably pass their entire lives there, and even early…
Finches. Horses. Donkeys. Cats. Storks. Chickens. Sheep. Lambs. Beasts have their place in the bustle of Marrakech. Clopping, padding, and flitting through the streets. If…
Is it French influence? Is it at the heart of Islam? Something inherently part of the Magreb soul? We don’t know the source, we only…
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