They first caught my eye in Hyderabad, but I couldn’t tell if I was seeing a fad, a pilot program or a sea change. What…
As our bus climbs out from the lowlands of the India-Nepal border into the forested hillside, my senses begin to return. My eardrums stop ringing…
In the northern subcontinent, our travels have taken on a focus: be where the Buddha has been. It wouldn’t be right to say we are…
In India, our way was smoothed by some gentlemen with such specialized skill and professionalism that we did not need to share much common language for them to…
Darjeeling is a whole different India. How is it different? How different is it? Here are some of our observations: It is cooler. Much cooler….
Aboard the Darjeeling Himalayan Express, scenes of mountain life pass by the open windows at an antique pace. Produce sellers line the tracks with baskets…
Our train shudders to a stop in Patna Junction, the nervous hiss of air breaks reflecting my mood. Have I erred in planning an adventuresome…
No matter how early you awaken, Ganga and her people are already at work. They never stopped, really. Corpses have been burning all night. The…
India is bursting with visual stimulus. Bright ads on every building: red ads for Coke, yellow and blue ads for cement, a confusing collage of…
The last time I left Delhi, the pilot couldn’t get the plane off the ground fast enough. Gastrointestinally challenged, physically exhausted and emotionally exasperated, I…
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