
“Nobody goes to bed in Madrid until they have killed the night.” Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon Travel-weary from an intercontinental ferry across the…

Our feet touch Spanish soil in Algeciras. Dusk is upon us when we debark and the dark is nearly complete by the time we’re out…

In Tangier something happened that had been hanging like a storm, and it broke on the third day there. Doomsday morning was sullen, and it…

You take a street-facing seat at the Gran Café de Paris with a view of the French Embassy, and join the men’s club of regulars…

The Sahara consumes part of Morocco, and while snow does fall in the Atlas and Rif mountains, the people of Morocco are water conscious. Perhaps…

The Plaza el Hauta is a theater in the round. In actuality, it is more wedge shaped than circular, like a thick, rustic portion of…

From your vantage point on the rooftop terrace of your pension in Fez-el-Bali, you hear the evening call to prayer echo out across the medina….

Mention Casablanca is on your itinerary and, inevitably, well-meaning people will try to convince you to change your plans, citing as evidence everything from high…

“Finnegan, this is a seaport, it has the atmosphere of one. That being the case, I have some sort of ship here. We will fit…

In the crush of fishing boats tied up at the Casablanca dock, my vision goes through an ethereal transformation. It is not a seaside mist…
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