I love water: drinking it; irrigating clover and timothy with my mom; helping Nordstrom use it wisely. I assume all who grow up in arid…
We hustle down from our bunks, sling our bags over our shoulders and stumble off of our night train from Hyderabad onto the platform at…
Novelists have long known that time travel is easy: Take a look—a sharp, tell-yourself-no-lies look—then shut your eyes. Better yet, go away. Return with open…
On our one full day in Vancouver British Columbia, everything is glassy and still. Clean and contemplative, this city evokes the gentle reserve of a…
Previous experience has taught us: India is a hot and dry country. Hot, meaning steamy tropics or blazing desert in many regions. Dry, meaning without…
How do we get ready for India? Train! How do we train? By Amtrak. From Portland to Vancouver, BC. What makes the Cascades line such effective…
In the last three weeks we’ve logged 1300 kilometers in long haul Turkish buses. While it isn’t as luxurious as Argentina’s, the Turkish bus system…
It is Sunday afternoon and it seems as if every Kurdish and Arab family in a hundred kilometer radius is picnicking and promenading around Urfa’s…
Your night bus from Ankara arrives in far southeastern Anatolia earlier than you expected. It is mid-morning when you climb out into the light of…
For a westerner looking at Ataturk’s chiseled, grey-toned, stoic face—almost always near a red crescent and star—it’s easy to roll him into a dismissive mental…
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